By N.P. Ermolov 1888.

 "I repeat: now, more than ever before, the overall breed appearance of the dog should be foremost, and a possible ideal list of traits should be roughly as follows:"

    Height - A height of 15 vershoks (26 1/4 inches.) should be considered normal for a bitch and 17 vershoks (29 3/4 inches.) for a male at the point of the shoulder. One vershok less or more may be good if the form is harmonious, i.e., a small, 14-vershok (24 1/2 inches.) bitch may be both a beauty and a good dam, and an 18-vershok (31 1/2 inches.) male may be handsome and pretty, but less than 14 vershoks (24 1/2 inches.) or more than 18 (31 1/2 inches.) are more faults than qualities.

     Head - The head should be lean with not too broad a forehead. The profile is near-Grecian in the sense that, viewed from the side, the line of the forehead and muzzle appears almost straight with a slight elevation at the brows and a dip by the eyes. The muzzle should be fine and long, but not overly so. A large forehead and a pointy muzzle are faults, and are such when the bones of the head become narrower and finer in the muzzle not gradually but abruptly. The lower jaw of the muzzle should not be so much shorter than the upper one that the difference is pronounced. The beard is black or nearly so, and dark. A hook-nosed muzzle with a recess and a breamlike nose, snub-nosed, or too blunt a muzzle is a fault.

     Ears - One cannot demand small, fine, fully closed ears, but it is desirable that the ears not be widely spaced and not be low-set, and that they be laid back and lie close to each other. It is good if the dog, in a state of keen attention, holds its ears like a horse.

      Eyes - A bit bulgy, large, woodcock like, dark and black. The margins of the eyelids are dark.

      Neck - A bit shorter and thicker in the male, and flat on the sides and a bit longer, comparatively, than in the female. A muscular healthy neck is needed in a male wolfhound, but for deft rabbit-hunting a longish neck is more convenient.

      Chest and forelegs - The chest should not be narrow, the shoulder should be muscular, but in comparison with the hindquarters of the dog, the front should be somewhat narrower and in no case wider. The shoulder bone should feed behind the attachment to the elbow - and then the straight and entirely evenly placed forelegs will stand true, a little under the dog; otherwise it will seem that the dog is not on its own legs but on some sort of support. The elbows of the forelegs should be turned slightly outward into the field. The legs are generally strong, bony, and sinewy, the pasterns are lean and narrow - harelip, and should rest on the ground with the claws and not the heel.

      Back - Wide, with a peak on the male, and on the female with a flat area with beamlike kidneys, the rump is broad enough that the palm fits between the femurs. It is good if the vertebrae do not stick up above the spinal column as on the sturgeon, but on the contrary, a small hollow along the entire back, but this cannot be strictly required, just as one cannot require that the male be steep-backed without fail and the female straight-backed. A female with a not particularly steep peak, with tautness, with a wide, beamlike back and ample hindquarters, may be very fine, and a straight-backed male, not stretched, all gathered into a bundle, also may be a good sire.

     Ribs- Not entirely flat, as on a pike, and not as barrellike, but only a little bent out to provide room for the respiratory organs, descending to the elbow of the forelegs, stomach set above the groin so that the dog is not pot-bellied, then the abdomen will be correct.

     Hindlegs and thigh muscles - The hindlegs are not too straight and not flaring; it is best if they are a little stretched. They should be parallel and wide-set if one looks from the rear, and in no case should they have the elbows on opposite the other, which makes ugly and weak cowlike hindquarters. The thigh muscles are moderate but narrowish and strong.. The pasterns are long and in the toes they are similar to a hare's, but they don't bunch into a round catlike paw, as on many smooth-haired dogs. The tendons should be thick and flexible.

     Tail - Not fleshy, but lean and a bit thicker than the toe, in a crescent of medium length with decorative feathering, i.e., the "suspension".

     General appearance - With a strong and flexible body, the dog should be dressed in a wavy, silky feathering. It is better if the cover is not especially warm, but with  feathering of good quality. The color of the feathering is now extremely varied, and in this regard one ought not to be too severe, but the following should be recognized as the most characteristic, typical featherings: gray and wheaten (pure white without markings is encountered rarely, although it is extremely beautiful), gray-skewbald and wheaten-skewbald, as well as mixed colors: pale yellow-gray, gray-pale yellow, and skewbald of these.

Copyright Rey and Yvonne McGehee 2000